On Tuesday,
my gringo group and I reunited for the second time since separating, once again
in Quito. Once we discussed the day´s
events and enjoyed some delicious fresh bread, yogurt and a fruit which´s name
escapes me, but was quite interesting, we headed to the centre of the
world.
We arrived
at the site after a one-hour bus ride, welcomed by the hot sun of the
Equator. Our first stop at the centre of
the world was a museum, which provided us replica houses of the indigenous
people of Ecuador. Our tour guide was
very knowledgeable about the people, and shared many interesting facts with
us. We learned about the shrunken head
process, something that I always believed to be a myth. I always imagine shrunken heads to have a
Jamaican accent and saying ¨It´s going to be a bumpy ride!¨ (That’s from Harry
Potter).
This represents Mother Earth, with the red, and the Sun with the yellow.
The
practice was an attempt for the indigenous people to preserve the spirits of
important people of the tribe, such as shamans, or family members. If your curious, here is the process, relayed
as best as I can remember it.
First, the
head it severed from the rest of the body.
Then, all
the contents of the head are removed.
The head is
boiled in a brew of herbs, which have yet to be discovered by the public.
All the
openings are sewn up.
The head is
stuffed with rocks and sand to preserve its shape.
And it is
adorned by the victor if it is the head of an enemy.
These
practices have been made illegal by the Ecuadorian government, as they were
being sold on the black market to tourists and other visitors to the
country. To make obscene amounts of
money, people would slay others just to make the heads, rather than use it as a
funerary practice of sorts. However, the
indigenous people still practice shrunken heads on people, and since they are
so isolated from society, it is likely that they still practice on humans.
We were
introduced to two ancient shrunken heads, this one the son of a shaman.
Following
the slightly disturbing lesson of the process of shrunken heads, we headed
right to the centre of the world. Here,
we witnessed a couple of really ¨chevere¨ (cool) experiments which demonstrated
the various phenomenons at the centre of the world. One demonstration showed us the effect of
water draining on either side of the line, and also on it. As mentioned in many shows and movies, we
witnessed the water spinning in different directions, only a few steps to each
side of the line. On the line, the water
did not spin, but just drained strait out of the bucket.
Here I am, standing in both the Northern and Southern Hemisphere at once.
Here is a sundial created by the indigenous people.
The group, half in the North, and half in the South.
Cassie and Alanna concentrate as they try to balance an egg on a nail, which is supposed to be easier on the Equator line.
Me attempting to walk across the Equator with my eyes closed, balancing. Its hard!
French Explorers and the monument.
Fog rolling across the mountains at the monument.
Maggie, Meg and Megan... no wonder everyone messes our names up!
At the incorrect Equator.
Our whole group at the false Equator.
Our last
stop of the day was to visit the ´previous´ centre of the world. By this, I mean that it is where the French
explorers calculated the centre of the world to be, with their archaic
instruments. There is a great monument
built to mark this place, along with statues of those who participated in the
cartographing adventure. It is
remarkable how close they were to the actual spot, considering the limited
technology at their disposal.
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